Here is an interesting treatment of a zipper set in a seam. Edges are stitched first and the zipper is applied to the back of the seam only using a backstitch. This is from “Sew The French Way” by Line Jacque
5. Strengthen the corners on the wrong side. For a skirt with a fabric waistband, sew the tape into the belt. Otherwise, turn in the ends and stitch them down carefully.
Note: For fabrics with a raised design, the stitching joining the fastener to the opening ought not too show. In such cases, turn in the opening just once and sew in the fastener by hand as when stitching along an edge-stitched or tuck seam, making your stitches as nearly invisible as possible.
bywayofthanks 
Thanks Carol. I rather like this one. Claire Shaeffer mentions a couture technique for topstitching pockets. But this treatment keeps a very soft edge and feel to the pocket. The pocket is top stitched when flat, about 1/8″ above the line along which it is folded. Then the edges are turned to the inside, or the pocket is lined. After that it is hand sewn to the coat or jacket.
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The zipper method is also described by Claire Schaeffer in her revised and updated Couture Sewing Techniques on page 103, “Topstitched Placket Zipper”. It’s also in her first edition Couture Sewing Techniques on page 97, “Applying a Zipper into a Topstitched Placket”. I like that pocket application as well.
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Carol, I now consider you my go-to garment historian and reference librarian. I respect your knowledge in these areas.
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That will motivate me to get my books in order at least!
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Reblogged this on Retro Glam and commented:
Another interesting zipper application courtesy of Carol at By Way of Thanks. Perfect for Norma’s 1930s Sew Along. I’m learning so much already. By the time the fashion fabric is cut and ready I’ll have a very certain direction for the construction. Thank you, Carol.
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Thank you, EmilyAnn, it’s been a way for me to learn more. It’s nice to know there are so many options for zippers.
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