A tisket, a tasket, another 30’s placket

I’ve made a tracing paper model of a placket closing from a 1953 pattern and a sample in muslin. I know the design could use improvement.  Constance Talbot’s 1943 book, The Complete Book of Sewing offers more detail. I think the clipping at the end of the placket (shown below) may be necessary. Both the underlap and the overlap could be wider. I will definitely sew the side seam first, ending at the placket marked by tailors’ tacks. In order to eliminate bulk I might not turn under the raw edge of the overlapping bias strip. Will also consider hooks and eyes; hooks and buttonholed thread loops or bars; or even buttonholes and flat buttons rather than snaps. If the fabric is thin, as the muslin is, underlining the pattern piece may be necessary. The search continues for the perfect placket.

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6 thoughts on “A tisket, a tasket, another 30’s placket

  1. I think buttons and button holes might be better because showing them looks more deliberate. Showing hooks and eyes looks wrong to our modern eyes. What do you think?

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    • I think the idea of an invisible placket opening in a seam is nice in theory, but how will it perform in day-to-day wearing? Will it be as strong as a zipper? Will it gap open and reveal the method chosen for closing?
      A Woman’s Institute booklet, Tailored Garments, from 1925, has a skirt on page 26 that has about 4-5 buttons sewn on the outside down the left front side (down the thigh rather than right at the side). The section on plackets starts on page 13. The booklet can be viewed at the url below and you can print out any page you like.
      http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.$b663094;view=1up;seq=51
      I will have to start looking at 1930’s fashions and maybe come up with a sketch of an outfit.
      What about concealing the skirt closure in a pocket as in the dress pictured on the top left of this interesting site.
      “The Landscape Change Program is an on-line archive of historic landscape imagery. The thousands of images in the archive provide an interdisciplinary look at the past and present of the Vermont landscape. The program is funded by the National Science Foundation to digitally document how the Vermont landscape has changed over time.”
      https://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1930s_clothing_women.php
      I will be working on a 1/4 scale mannequin to draft a skirt and try out some plackets. The small scale may be easier for me right now.

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  2. You might try a Google search for “Woman’s Institute Tailored Garments”. Choose the selection “Catalog: Tailored Garments: Tailored Suits, coats…”. That should bring you to http://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009127038 and the actual record with the Full View. If you do a search directly from https://www.hathitrust.org/ Tailored Garments is about 5 entries down the page. I am going to try to make a habit-back placket that uses hooks and eyes. I don’t think this placket is in the booklet I just mentioned. I will post about it soon. Looking forward to your button closure!

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