October 1935 Hazleton, PA newspaper ad
Here are a few scans that show how stay tapes and directional stitching may help preserve the shape of the V neckline.
I am thinking of making a sleeveless pull-over top or vest that would have a V neckline. Rather than using a bias binding or a bias facing, I would like to use a facing cut with the grain of the garment. My plan was to have the front of the facing show on the front of the garment. I could also make a wider decorative V in this way possibly with multiple stripes like a tennis sweater.
The facing itself may be faced so I could just slip stitch it in place on the front. The lower raw edge of the faced facing would end at the cut edge of the V neckline or the armscye and I could hold it to the garment with a running stitch that wouldn’t show. The upper raw edge of the facing would turn to the inside and meet the seam allowance of the garment. I could then clip the facing to make it lay flat. At this point the seam allowance of the underlining could be turned toward the turned-in facing and slip stitched in place.
To test out my idea I was going to use this Gertrude Mason pattern, but today I found a pattern in my collection for a V neck jumper so that will be easier right now.
Jane Shaner’s 1974 “The Silver Thimble” newsletter recommends 1/8″ wide tape for lightweight fabrics, 1/4″ cotton twill tape, for heavier fabrics. Notice that the tape stops about 1″ from the point of the V.
The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction (1959) recommends 1/4″ seam tape, cutting the regulation 1/2″ in half.
Stay stitching is directional and construction stitching is also directional.
Home economics class handout above.
Butterick pamphlet 1949 above.